W10822278 Refrigerator Freezer Defrost Timer for Whirlpool KitchenAid Kenmore Refrigerators

W10822278 / 2188372 Refrigerator Defrost Timer

Key Features

• Precision 10-Hour Cycle: Features a factory-calibrated mechanical motor that triggers a defrost cycle every 10 hours of compressor run-time, maintaining the ideal balance between cooling and frost prevention.
• Fixed 21-Minute Defrost Duration: Specifically engineered to keep the defrost heater active for exactly 21 minutes, ensuring all ice is cleared from the evaporator coils without overheating the freezer compartment.
• Heavy-Duty Internal Contacts: Built with high-conductivity metal points designed to switch the high-amperage load of the defrost heater thousands of times without pitting or sticking.
• Manual Advance Dial: Equipped with an integrated "advance screw" that allows technicians and DIYers to manually trigger a defrost cycle for diagnostic testing without waiting for the 10-hour timer.
• Standard 4-Pin Layout: Features a keyed electrical connector that ensures a proper, one-way fit into the refrigerator's wiring harness, preventing accidental short circuits.

Replaces / Cross-Reference Part Numbers

• AP5985208
• PS11723171
• 482493
• 4318057
• 2188372
• 850343
• 850345
• 482489
• W10822278VP
• W10740039

Compatibility & Fitment

This defrost timer is one of the most widely used mechanical controls in Whirlpool Corporation's history. Key compatible brands include:

• Whirlpool & Kenmore: Fits a massive range of top-mount and side-by-side models (e.g., 106-prefix and 110-prefix units).
• KitchenAid: Compatible with many older series built-in and freestanding refrigerators.
• Maytag: Fits various models produced following the Whirlpool-Maytag brand integration.
• Amana, Roper, & Estate: Direct replacement for almost all mechanical-timer units in these value brands.
• Note: This part is typically located either in the control console at the top of the refrigerator or behind the bottom kickplate (toe grille) near the compressor.

When to Replace

• Fridge Stays Too Warm: The timer is stuck in the "cooling" mode and never triggers a defrost, leading to evaporator coils that are choked with ice.
• Fridge Won't Start: The timer is stuck in the "defrost" mode; the lights will work, but the compressor and fans will never turn back on.
• Compressor "Clicks" But Doesn't Run: If the internal contacts are worn, they may fail to provide enough voltage to engage the compressor's start relay.
• Audible Clicking or Grinding: The small internal motor of the timer has failed or the plastic gears have stripped, preventing the dial from advancing.
• Timer Won't Advance Manually: If you turn the advance screw and the fridge doesn't kick on or off as expected, the internal mechanical bridge is likely broken.

Installation Tips

• Safety First: CRITICAL: Unplug the refrigerator before starting. Even though this part is small, it controls the main power to the compressor and heater.
• The "Screw" Test: PRO TIP: Before replacing, use a flat-head screwdriver to slowly turn the advance screw clockwise until you hear a loud "click." If the compressor turns off and the heater turns on, your timer might still be good (check the defrost heater instead).
• Orientation Matters: While the plug is keyed, take note of how the timer is mounted. Reversing the mounting position can sometimes make it difficult to access the advance screw through the console's access hole later.
• Check the Bi-Metal: If you replace the timer and the ice buildup returns in a week, your defrost bi-metal thermostat is likely the culprit, as it acts as a secondary safety for the timer.
• Wait for the Cycle: After installing the new W10822278, it may take up to 10 hours for the first automatic defrost cycle to occur. This is normal operation.