675813 Dishwasher Thermal Fuse Replacement - For Whirlpool Kenmore Dishwashers

675813 Dishwasher Thermal Fuse Replacement

Key Features

• Critical Overheat Protection: Engineered as a high-precision safety cut-off that permanently breaks the electrical circuit if the dishwasher's internal temperatures reach dangerous levels, preventing potential fire hazards.
• Complete Harness Upgrade: This kit includes upgraded high-temperature wire leads and connectors, as many thermal fuse failures are caused by resistance-heat at the original wiring terminals rather than a fault in the fuse itself.
• Industrial-Grade Housing: The fuse is encased in a reinforced, moisture-resistant plastic shell designed to withstand the high-humidity environment behind the dishwasher's inner door panel.
• Vibration-Resistant Connections: Includes high-quality wire nuts and insulated terminals designed to maintain a secure electrical path despite the constant vibration of wash and drain cycles.

Replaces / Cross-Reference Part Numbers

• AP3115186
• PS382828
• 3375557
• 3376359
• 679723
• 675813VP
• AH382828
• EA382828
• EAP382828
• DW5813

Compatibility & Fitment

This thermal fuse kit is the standard safety replacement for most Whirlpool-manufactured dishwashers produced between 1995 and 2010. Key compatible brands include:

• Whirlpool: Fits many DU, DP, and GU series models (e.g., DU810SWPQ, GU940SCGQ).
• Kenmore (665 Series): Compatible with hundreds of 665-prefix dishwashers (e.g., 665.1573291, 665.16362).
• KitchenAid, Maytag, & Roper: Direct fit for dozens of KUD, MDB, and RU series units utilizing the 675813 fuse style.
• Note: This fuse is typically located at the Top of the Inner Door, tucked inside the control console. If your dishwasher was built after 2012, it likely uses the newer W10258275 fuse kit instead.

When to Replace

• No Power / Dead Console: The dishwasher is plugged in and the breaker is on, but there are no lights on the control panel and the machine won't start.
• Mid-Cycle Shutdown: The dishwasher stops abruptly during a high-heat cycle (like "Sani-Wash") and will not turn back on.
• Visible Heat Damage: Upon inspection, the plastic fuse housing or the wire connectors are discolored, melted, or charred.
• Continuity Test Failure: Using a multimeter, the fuse shows "Open" (no continuity), indicating it has tripped to protect the control board.
• Smell of Burning Plastic: An early warning sign that the wire terminals are overheating and the fuse is about to fail.

Installation Tips

• Safety First: You MUST unplug the dishwasher or turn off the circuit breaker. This repair involves working directly with 120V line voltage behind the control console.
• Use the New Harness: Do not just swap the fuse! You must install the new wire leads included in the kit. The original wires often have microscopic heat damage that will cause your new fuse to blow immediately.
• Clean the Terminals: Ensure the spade connectors on the control board are clean. If they look burnt, use a small piece of fine sandpaper to clean the metal tab before attaching the new harness.
• Secure Wire Nuts: When using the included wire nuts, give each wire a "tug test" to ensure they are locked together tightly. A loose connection creates heat, which will trip the fuse again.
• Check the Heating Element: After replacing the fuse, inspect your Heating Element at the bottom of the tub. A grounded or cracked element is often the root cause of the fuse tripping in the first place.