W10158389 Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve for Whirlpool Kenmore Dishwashers

W10158389 / WPW10158389 Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve

Key Features

• Precision Solenoid Actuation: Engineered with an upgraded electromagnetic coil that provides instant response to control board signals, ensuring the exact water volume is dispensed for every wash cycle to maintain optimal cleaning performance.
• Reinforced High-Pressure Inlet: Features a durable, corrosion-resistant 3/4-inch threaded connection designed to withstand high household water pressure and prevent thread stripping during installation.
• Integrated Fine-Mesh Sediment Filter: Includes a built-in stainless steel screen that captures sand, mineral scale, and pipe debris before they can enter the dishwasher's internal pumps or clog the spray arms.
• Anti-Hammer Flow Control: Internally baffled to minimize "water hammer" noise and vibration when the valve shuts off, protecting your home's internal plumbing and ensuring a quieter kitchen environment.

Replaces / Cross-Reference Part Numbers

• WPW10158389
• AP6015932
• PS11749213
• W10158387
• 8558986
• 8558987
• 8563405
• 8563406
• WPW10158389VP
• EAP11749213

Compatibility & Fitment

This water inlet valve is the standard replacement for many Whirlpool-manufactured dishwashers produced between 2005 and 2015. Key compatible brands include:

• Whirlpool & Maytag: Fits hundreds of DU, GU, and MDB series models (e.g., DU1100XTPQ, MDB4651BWS).
• Kenmore (665 Series): Compatible with many 665-prefix "Ultra Wash" and standard dishwashers (e.g., 665.13263K311, 665.1573291).
• KitchenAid & Jenn-Air: Fits various KUDI, KUDL, and JDB series units utilizing the W10158389 valve style.
• Amana, Roper, & Estate: Direct fit for dozens of ADB and DU series models manufactured by Whirlpool.
• Note: This valve is typically located behind the lower kickplate at the bottom front-left or front-right of the dishwasher base.

When to Replace

• Dishwasher Not Filling: The cycle starts and you hear the drain pump run, but the tub remains dry because the valve is stuck closed or the solenoid has failed.
• Water Leaking into Tub: You find standing water at the bottom of the dishwasher when it is turned off, indicating the internal diaphragm is no longer sealing completely.
• "F8 E1" or "Low Fill" Errors: Modern units may trigger error codes when the control board senses the water level has not been reached within the programmed time.
• Loud Buzzing During Fill: A loud mechanical hum when the machine tries to take in water suggests the solenoid coil is failing or the internal valve stem is stuck.
• Poor Cleaning Performance: If the valve's internal screen is partially clogged with mineral scale, the dishwasher won't fill with enough water to maintain full spray pressure.

Installation Tips

• Safety First: You MUST unplug the dishwasher and turn off the water supply valve under the sink before beginning this repair.
• Access the Valve: Remove the lower kickplate (toe kick) at the bottom front. The valve is usually mounted to the frame with a 1/4-inch hex head screw.
• Use Plumber's Tape: Apply a small amount of Teflon tape to the threads of your water supply line to ensure a watertight seal, but keep the tape away from the very tip to prevent it from entering the valve.
• Check the Clamp: When moving the internal rubber hose to the new valve, ensure the spring clamp is positioned securely behind the barb to prevent the hose from blowing off.
• Leak Test: After installation, turn the water back on and run a short cycle before reinstalling the kickplate to verify there are no drips at the threaded connection or the outlet hose.