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[Lifetime Warranty] 3977394 Dryer Thermal Fuse Replacement - Compatible with Whirlpool Kenmore Dryers - Replaces 80001 279548 695563 2796769 279769VP 3387812 3389946 3398671 AP3094224 PS334278 EAP334278

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3977394 Dryer Thermal Fuse Replacement

Key Features

  • Critical Safety Overheat Protection: Designed as a non-resettable safety device that permanently "blows" to break the electrical circuit if the dryer internal temperature exceeds a safe limit (typically 196°F).
  • High-Conductivity Terminals: Features two 1/4-inch male spade terminals for a secure, low-resistance connection to the dryer's wiring harness, ensuring consistent power delivery.
  • Durable Heat-Resistant Housing: The fuse body is constructed from high-grade, flame-retardant plastic designed to withstand the high-vibration environment of the blower housing.
  • Quick Restoration: Provides an affordable and straightforward solution to restore dryer functionality without the need for expensive professional repairs.

Replaces / Cross-Reference Part Numbers

  • Primary Part Number: 3977394.
  • Cross-References: 80001, 279548, 695563, 2796769, 279769VP, 3387812, 3389946, 3398671, AP3094224, PS334278, EAP334278.

Compatibility & Fitment

This thermal fuse is one of the most widely used safety components in the appliance industry. It is compatible with most 29-inch wide dryers built by Whirlpool Corporation, including:

  • Whirlpool & Kenmore: Fits a vast majority of 70, 80, 90, and 110-series residential dryers.
  • Maytag: Compatible with Centennial and Bravos models produced after 2006.
  • Additional Brands: Fits KitchenAid, Estate, Roper, Inglis, Crosley, Admiral, and Amana dryers.
  • Note: This fuse is typically located on the blower wheel housing. If your dryer has two fuses on the heater box, this may be the one paired with the high-limit thermostat.

When to Replace

  • Dryer Won't Start: On most electric dryers, a blown thermal fuse will prevent the motor from turning over entirely to prevent fire hazards.
  • No Heat: On some gas dryers, the drum may still spin, but the igniter will not glow or release gas if the thermal fuse has failed.
  • Testing for Failure: Use a multimeter to test for "continuity." If the meter does not beep or shows "OL" (Open Line) when touching both terminals, the fuse is blown and must be replaced.

Installation Tips

  • Safety First: CRITICAL: Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet or turn off the circuit breaker before removing the back panel.
  • Identify the Cause: PRO TIP: Thermal fuses rarely blow without a reason. Before installing the new fuse, check your dryer vent hose for clogs. A blocked vent is the #1 cause of overheating and blown fuses.
  • Check the High-Limit Thermostat: Often, the high-limit thermostat (located near the fuse) fails at the same time. It is highly recommended to inspect or replace both as a pair to ensure a permanent repair.
  • Vacuum the Blower: While the back panel is off, take a moment to vacuum out the lint buildup around the blower wheel and motor area to improve airflow and prevent the new fuse from blowing.

FAQ

This thermal fuse is commonly used on select Whirlpool and Kenmore dryers, and some cross-references also list fitment for certain KitchenAid and Estate dryers. Known example models mentioned in cross-reference sources include 1CWGD4800DQ0, 3CE2910XSW1, 3LER5434DN0, and multiple Kenmore 110-series dryers such as 11060052990, 11060052991, 11060094990, 11060097990, 11060924990, 11062972100, and 11086894800. Because Whirlpool-built dryers were sold under several brand names, the safest way to confirm fit is to match your dryer's model number and the original fuse part number.
This part cross-references to 3977394, 80001, 279548, 695563, 2796769, 279769VP, 3387812, 3389946, 3398671, AP3094224, PS334278, and EAP334278. Additional cross-reference numbers found in search results include 8318268, 3392519, 3403140, 279769, 2821, and 2004. Always confirm by your dryer model number and the number printed in your parts diagram or service literature.
This thermal fuse is a safety device that opens the circuit if the dryer overheats. On dryers that use this style of fuse, it is commonly used to interrupt power to the heating system when temperatures rise beyond a safe limit. If the fuse has blown, the dryer may stop heating even though the drum still tumbles.
Common symptoms include a dryer that runs but produces no heat, clothes taking much longer than normal to dry, or a dryer that overheated before heat stopped completely. Since a blown thermal fuse is often the result of restricted airflow, check the vent hose, wall duct, lint screen housing, and exterior vent cap before replacing the part.
The most common cause is overheating from poor airflow. Typical root causes include a clogged lint screen path, crushed or blocked vent hose, lint buildup inside the cabinet or blower housing, or a stuck vent flap outside the home. In some cases, a failing cycling thermostat, high-limit thermostat, or heating element issue can also contribute to overheating.
On many Whirlpool-built dryers, this is a moderate repair that usually takes about 20 to 45 minutes. You typically need a screwdriver or nut driver to remove the rear panel or access panel, depending on the dryer design, plus a multimeter if you want to test the old fuse for continuity first. Always unplug the dryer before service, and if it is a gas model, shut off the gas supply as well.
Yes. Before installing the replacement, test the old fuse with a multimeter for continuity and inspect the venting system for restrictions. After installation, run the dryer with good airflow and verify that the exhaust is strong at the outside vent. If the new fuse fails again quickly, inspect the cycling thermostat, high-limit thermostat, blower wheel, and heating element, because replacing the fuse alone will not solve an underlying overheating problem.